Politics of the Palate Presentation
San Francisco 3/16/2011 By: Juan J. San Mames, www.saffron.com
San Francisco Professional Food Society, Le D’Escoffier and Baker’s Dozen
Spanish Saffron Exports: a Massive Adulteration with full knowledge of the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture and ICEX.
An open letter to the US consumer
Dear saffron Friends present today at the Politics of the Palate:
1. A simple check of the numbers given by the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture to the different newspapers in Spain and UK points to a MASSIVE ADULTERATION of “saffron” coming out of Spain, and when we say ADULTERATION we mean with ARTIFICIAL COLORS, not a mix of Iranian or Greek or “lower grades” as Saffron packers try to make us believe now.
In the latest issue of SPAIN GOURMETOUR (# 81, January-April) they finally admit to what we had complained and reported to the Ministry of Agriculture in 2010. The Ministry is fully aware of all the aspects of the ADULTERATION and chooses to ignore it because the artificial color(s) adulteration is out of control. They have done nothing to stop it, even though we have presented them with actual laboratory reports made in the USA by a licensed, FDA-approved laboratory. The four Spanish samples, that we sent came back with artificial colors added. Their prices ranged from $80 to $168 per oz (28.35gr). This Spanish saffron adulteration continues in 2011 and even though the perpetrators are caught time and time again, since there are no sanctions against the Spanish saffron companies, the adulterations go on unchecked and at an alarming rate. The Ministry admits that 90% is adulterated, that may be true for the EU, but we are getting 99.99% adulteration in the USA. Here are some numbers to show that the saffron being exported out of Spain cannot be a mix, as they claim, but outright adulterated.
2. Saffron at $336.00 per kilo?
The Spanish Agriculture Ministry claims that in 2010, Spain shipped 190,000 kilos of saffron at a value of: $ 64,000,000.00, which divided into 190,000 kg comes to $336 per kg. How can you sell saffron at $336 kg when in 2010 the price for Spanish saffron was $3500kg and Iranian $2550kg?
If it was Iranian, as they claim, it should have cost at least $2550kg (this price is without profit). Therefore, this is not a MIX of Iranian and Spanish saffron(Spain only produces 800kg); their own numbers point toward MASSIVE ADULTERATION. There is no way you would purchase saffron at $2550kg and sell it for $336 kg. What they are shipping out of Spain is ADULTERATED, ARTIFICIALLY COLORED “saffron”. The newspapers claim that 90% was mixed or adulterated, but we can claim by the samples we had analyzed by a US lab, that 99.99% of the saffron shipped to the US from Spain is adulterated, again, not a “mix” as claimed but outright artificial adulteration. The worst part is that the consumers are being charged $9.60gr for this adulterated saffron or $9,600.00 per kg, when the cost to Spanish packers is 0.33 cents a gram or $336.00 kilo. This is immoral and dangerous because of the artificial substances involved and not declared on the label as required by the FDA. Not only can these substances cause allergic reactions, but some of them, like Ponceau, are forbidden by the FDA.
3. What is the saffron consumer to do?
For one thing after more than 35 years in the saffron business, the only recommendation I have is that you do not buy Spanish saffron, no matter who recommends it or who is selling it. The adulteration or mix of Spanish “saffron” is not new. For the last 25 years, US consumers have suffered mixes, adulterations and mislabeling by the Spanish saffron packers, year after year. The adulteration is happening in Spain and it is shipped out of Spain and nowhere else. It is outrageous that the same Spanish companies keep on adulterating and mixing and the Ministry of Agriculture or ICEX do nothing about it. Even SPAIN GOURMETOUR admits to the cheating and try to blame it on the Iranian “lower grade” saffron. The article talks about the Spanish saffron company that’s promoting “Pure, DO Spanish Saffron”, but this is the same company that in 2009 claimed to have exported 7,000 kg, when Spain produces less than 900kg! Who are they trying to FOOL! . Food adulteration is not only limited to saffron, it happens with jamon Iberico: 17,000 kg of it found in Seville; the same with olive oil. This is the norm in the Spanish food industry.
4. Quality checks with in the European Union?
Food or spice shipments within the EU are not checked, they move freely within the EU. They ship whatever they want out of Spain. Shipments of saffron can go from Valencia Spain, to London and on to the USA, without being subject to a laboratory check or any other inspection. Even if they check and find out that the product is adulterated, they do NOT fine the violator, he just re-ships again the same adulterated product another way. In Iran, on the other hand the inspectors “choose from the shipment” and if you are caught cheating, you are out of business, severely fined and you go to prison; that’s how controlled their saffron industry is.
5. DO or Denomination of Origin
This is another sham on the long history of Spanish saffron miss-information and adulteration. All that DO means is that the saffron is grown in Spain; it has NOTHING to do with the quality of the saffron and it is not subject to ISO-3632. This DO “association” had the arrogance of “inventing” their own saffron rule(s) Rule EN-45011. They are a self-governing body.
In other words, the foxes in charge of the chicken house. There is already and ISO-3632 standarsd (ISO=International Organization for Standardization) which ONLY the Iranians abide by and they are third party certified by the EU. None of the Spanish packers abide by the ISO-3632. When they show a lab report is always cooked: they go to the government laboratory with real saffron, but this sample has nothing to do with what they are shipping. Curiously, no Spanish saffron company accuses another one of cheating because they all have the finger on the pie or shall be said in the adulteration or mix. As Lincoln said, “
You can fool all the people some of the time, and some of the people all the time, but you cannot fool all the people all the time.” The Spanish saffron industry has been mixing and adulterating forever, and they think that they can keep on fooling the world, even when the adulterations are admitted at the Ministerial level. The Agricultural Ministry admitted to me to the adulteration; I have their e mail. I presented the Ministry with the US lab reports. Let’s be clear the Spanish saffron industry is NOT regulated by anyone; that is why they are able to continue the saffron adulteration at outrageous amount of 199,000 kg. Spain only produces 900kg or less. The adulteration is of unprecedented scale with artificial colors and I have the laboratory reports and so does the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture.
6. Where does the best saffron come from?
From Persian region of Iran and Afghanistan. Persian saffron has the oldest and most abundantly diversified DNA base. When Alexander the Great took his saffron bath and came out proclaiming himself as a living god, the Iranians had been cultivating saffron for thousands of years, and when it came to Spain in the 1100’s, it came from Iran/Persia. Today saffron from Persia Iran/Afghanistan is cultivated in small family farms with over 65,000 families for every 100,000 kg. In 2010, Iran produced over 250 tm. By virtue of its volume, Iran produces the best quality saffron and they are able to select from their astronomical production the best corms for the following crop, year after year, generation after generation since time immemorial.
7. Saffron is made into quality by removing the yellow stamen, which has no culinary value
When you remove the yellow part of the stigmata you have SARGOL, which means “top of the flower” in Farsi. Removing the yellow lets the Sargol breathe out the moisture and the “casing” wraps around the saffron as it dries out. It looks like a crayon under the microscope. The Spanish “experts” (like Mr. Garcia from the DO) say that Iranian threads are “thin” because of the intense corm farming (he’s never been to Iran); it shows you how little they know about their own saffron history or how little they want you to know about how to cure/dry saffron. At the beginning of the 1900’s the French chefs demanded that the Spanish saffron exporters sell them the saffron without the yellow. “COUPE” or “cut” in other words, they wanted only the RED or Sargol “top of the flower”. When you leave the yellow part, moisture is trapped and that is why you hear the “experts” talk about the “musty” smell of Spanish saffron. That mustiness is fungi, which spoil the saffron. However, in Spain they leave the yellow and the moisture for two reasons: First, moisture adds weight and second, yellow stamens add weight. So all this talk about “voluminous long” threads is hog wash. Saffron should be short ¼” to 3/8” , and all the yellow cut out, because again, it has no culinary value whatsoever. Furthermore, have you heard the recommendation of “putting the saffron to dry on a frying pan before use to get the moisture out”? This only happens with Spanish saffron, not with Iranian which as you have observed in your sample is all completely dry out.
While this yellow may look insignificant, the FSA (The British FDA) declared “The test of the “pure and genuine” saffron from Spain for sale in the UK was of poor quality and included, depending on the brand, between 40 and 90% of the worthless part of the flower” (The Telegraph, Jan 2011, “Spanish saffron scandal”)